Fallen from Grace

Steinbeck jumper for SD13 - beginner difficulty

2009-02-13T10:32:58Z

This is a super easy pattern done in DK wool on uk size 13 needles (2.25mm)
but the good news is that tension doesn't really matter, the ribbing pulls it tight so there is a lot of leeway
Back
CO50
row 1 k2 p2 to end
row 2 p2 k2 to end
work in pattern until desired length (you choose)
bind off

left front
CO30
row 1 k2 p2 to end
row 2 p2 k2 to end
work in pattern to match back
bind off

right front
CO20
row 1 k2 p2 to end
row 2 p2 k2 to end
work in pattern to match back
bind off

sleeves (work 2)

CO34 work in k2 p2 rib
decrease work every 5th row until row 25 by (24 stitches remain)
s1 k1 psso wip till 2 stitches remain, k2tog (p2tog if pattern suggests)
25-28 work in pattern
Bind off

stitch together making sure to leave open at neck
this gives an asymmetric pattern (that was meant to be all droopy and shawl necked like one of my own!)
add notions to finish

to avoid pooling like i got with the variegated yarn (I learned this AFTER I finished) take two balls of the wool and knit 2 rows in ball a and two rows in ball b
this is a problem with small works but i got 2 patterns out of one ball of wool with some left over so 2 balls equals four sweaters.... not so bad.

How to make a pattern - Hina Ichigo cosplay for Yo-sd walkthrough pt5

2009-01-25T15:18:55Z

the finished pattern

Legal bit
because i don't own the rights to Hina Ichigo - peach pit do - please don't make this pattern for sale, make as many as you like for your own use or as gifts but if I see it or the pattern for sale I will remove it and all other free patterns i have ever posted.

How to make a pattern - Hina Ichigo cosplay for Yo-sd walkthrough pt4

2009-01-25T15:06:10Z

So I spent the best part of last night testing out the pattern in scrap fabric

and because this is what happens there were errors that only showed up when i made them

first of all the crotch on the liberty bodice was so high that the neckline sat under the breastbone, this is relatively easy to fix simply by dropping the crotch, but then going back to the pattern to show the change. This is what it looked like before.

And this was what it looked like after I finished it
bearing in mind the notes on the pattern suggested that there be ribbon ties at the shoulder i used some scrap ribbon at the shoulders and through the bloomer hems to gather.

Whenever I'm pattern testing I always make sure to use an obnoxiously coloured thread (in this case orange) this is so that I can pick out the inevitable errors a lot easier than it would be if i had used matching thread. Also as you make more outfits and you gather matching threads you'll end up with a lot of these. This is why the seams are so obvious.

I had thought, through past experience, that the all in one liberty bodice would be a nightmare - they often are, however apart from the crotch being too high it went together a dream

The white underdress was another matter
it looked deceptively simple. It looked easy actually, so i stitched it together and then put it on poor Noah keeping an eye on it but otherwise ta-da
then I made the coat.

The coat had a simple error in it, the back was too wide and I had forgotten to annotate the front hem. These were easily fixed.
I put the coat on Noah and then stared at it. It was wrong, Something was wrong, and I had to walk away from it to see what the problem was.

The underskirt wasn't poofy enough.

So back to the drawing board, I went scouring through the internet for pictures of the Jun Planning Dal Hina Ichigo dress to see how they had done it. They cheated.
In the anime it's clearly a one piece dress that is darted, they had a small yoke with skirt, such as you'd make for a dress. This meant they could have the poof without half the work - but it was wrong. They probably did this to make it easier to mass market.
I was left with two choices, one scrap the a-line dress pattern entirely and work again from scratch or to add gores to extend the skirt.
I went with gores, they're easier. By adding two 6cm gores I also had to add the gore to the pattern, in this case a triangle which is 6cm wide and 9cm high, and to add the measurements to the ruffle, which I forgot to annotate before I scanned the revised pattern in. This means it needs altered using the golden mean.
originally the ruffle was 42cm, we added 12cm to the overall diametre which means we have to add 18cm to the ruffle, so it's now 60cm using the golden mean, which is 1 1/2 the length.

I didn't add the ruffle or hem the outfit (except the bloomers) because this was a prototype, it doesn't need to be finished like that. hence the rough edges. To make my life easier when making the finished item I decided to substitute the ruffle for a piece of broderie anglaise which would be scallopped, still ruffled but prettier and means I wouldn't have to hem it. I'd also add some to the bloomers to give a nicer edge there.

so this is the finished prototype

onward to part 5

How to make a pattern - Hina Ichigo cosplay for Yo-sd walkthrough pt3

2009-01-23T17:38:50Z

So you have a basic set of slopers for your pattern now lets make them work

outline the slopers so you can trace them unto the paper you use for pattern making, I prefer graph paper but it's up to you

go over the lines with a ruler and in most cases note down measurements for your own reference. Now to add a seam allowance, I use 5mm as a seam allowance but it's personal preference, when i handstitch i work quite close to the edge so it works for me, but you might like a bigger one. If I'm using the machine I use pinking shears anyway and cut around the pattern not the pattern itself so I give myself a larger allowance.

To save paper (the rest was done on scrap) I put the patterns horizontally on the page.

This is the coat

note how both front and back are drawn and the collar at the back was raised. Because the back is on the fold there is no seam allowance on that line because it's not needed.

The reason I worked the pattern out on the fold where possible was to create a smoother edge but also because it means that both sides of the pattern match.

this is the a-line dress

now note that I've added darts to gather the bodice some, but not tight, and the ruffle is drawn in with measurements but not to scale, the reason for this was it was too big for the page. To work out the length of the ruffle take the whole width of the skirt, in this case 28cm and add half again, 14cm, so 28cm plus 14cm equals 42cm, this is worked out using the golden mean but just add half again.
this holds true for all ruffles, also tiered skirts.

the liberty bodice
notice how I've added the gussets and there are also construction notes at the side because it doesn't go together as simply as one might think if they weren't paying attention. The easiest way to make this was to seperate it into four parts. I added plackets so that it could be easily removed, without fussing. I shortened the straps because a ribbon could be added to achieve the tie effect with less work than making tubes

I hven't outlined the patterns because these are the temporary master copies, and I want them to be available if changes need to be made.

At this stage I use my scanner to photocopy them.
And prepare the scrap fabric I'm going to use to make the mock ups.

Now these pages are to size, each square on the grid is 2cm and if you print them out WITHOUT a margin will print correctly
I use a freeware program called Irfanview to do my printing because it doesn't print margins

onward to part 4

How to make a pattern - Hina Ichigo cosplay for Yo-sd walkthrough pt2

2009-01-23T17:21:48Z

so you have chosen your pattern and worked out how you think it works
the next stage really needs the doll, you can work this out with measurements on the site but it's much easier with the doll

One of the reasons I chose a yo-sd for this pattern, apart from it looking super cute, was that I could fit everything on one sheet of paper for ease of explaining.

first we're going to build a very basic model to work from
this is something that works fabulously with dolls which you couldn't do with real people
You need to measure your doll, first from the "floor" to the top of their head without the wig.

write down that measurement
now work out the following measurements, inside leg, breastbone, waist, hip, thigh, knee, ankle, bicep, elbow, wrist, neck - using a tape measure measure all the way around and then halve the final measurement so if it's 8cm around the thigh you need 4.

now draw a line the length of your doll in the centre of your page and using your doll as a reference (put them on the line) mark out their shoulders, neck, breastbone, waist, hips, crotch, inside thigh and draw a thin line at this point.

Using the centre line as a measure draw mark these lines out, so if the measurement is 8cm, place your straight edge at 4cm and draw on both sides of the line.

Do this for all the measurements
now join them up with the ruler.

it should look something like this, but probably a lot neater than mine

you may notice that this is fatter than your doll, because this is what your doll would look like if someone cut them in half and rolled the resin flat, this incorporates the sides of the doll. That i had to learn the hard way.

Now take this piece of paper and go over these lines with a good thick marker and then consider laminating it because this becomes invaluable and makes life much much easier. I stick mine in a plastic comic wallet, which allows me to work on it without marking it. This one was worked out today just for you

The point of outlining it is because we're going to trace it.

Putting another piece of paper on top pencil out the lines so you can make changes to fit the pattern now.

All pattern pieces follow the same shapes and rules but they can be amended so what I did was draw the shapes I needed, using other patterns as a reference point where i needed to.
these were drawn unto the measurement guide I had traced unto the paper

this is the liberty bodice

this serves as a good example because I had to work out how to do it in as few seams as possible to create a smooth line, and because it's wrong, I forgot to add the gusset to sew up the bloomers - which are in the final pattern.

If you look in the corner there is the pattern shape (and yes I still got it wrong) that I worked out and you can still see the light pencil lines of the measurements.

here is the a-line dress with darts roughly placed, I know i need them but at the moment it doesn't matter where on that line they are. These are without seam allowance but otherwise will work as pattern pieces, if you're making the pattern for yourself these would be fine to use. You can also notice how because the back piece and front piece are similar I just drew the placket on the same piece because i was going to trace it later.

this is the coat
to make this easier to make I deliberately did everything on the fold or with two pieces. This was a decision on my part to keep seams to a minimum

and the sleeve
using the same box I drew before I drew a square and worked out the details i needed, in this case a puffier shoulder and fluted wrist
I drew a line down the centre of the pattern so that the curve would match however not all sleeves are symmetrical so it's a good idea to always draw the square just in case.
It's also something you can store away for later and use again and again.

onwards to part 3

How to make a pattern - Hina Ichigo cosplay for Yo-sd walkthrough pt1

2009-01-23T16:58:22Z

I draft a lot of patterns of which you see the smallest part for sale, because they didn't work, they looked hideous when made up, i couldn't be bothered all of which are perfectly valid excuses

I don't care what anyone says things will go wrong no matter who you are, I'm sure Jason Wu has patterns that never make it off the page simply because in practice they just went together wrong

for saying that I was sat today pattern drafting and it occurred to me that for some reason it's considered some arcane art that is done in secrecy by a few adepts with expensive and rare equipment when the moon is full

whilst this is true of knitting patterns it's not so for sewing

whilst it's not simple per se it's not difficult if you have a) the right equipment and a good eye.

The equipment
now everyone has a list of things they swear by but I found due to my parents making me pay for my equipment for graphical design you don't need the fancy stuff 99 times out of a hundred without having to make do with just a little common sense.

1. A pencil - right this is one i'm going to put my foot down on, any pencil between 2h and 2b will be fine but .... try writing with it first, if it's scratchy or feels uncomfortable or you don't like the veneer don't use it
a pencil crayon will not do
if you go into the art store you'll see LOTS of pencils and they come in sets which are expensive - rest assured you don't need those - you might want them but you don't need them
pencils are measured in hardness and blackness in a scale from 12H (VERY HARD - barely makes a mark on the paper) to 12B (VERY BLACK very soft and needs sharpened constantly)
most writing is done with a HB, the medium point and this is fine for drafting because afterall you're going to tweak it later.
If you choose to use a mechanical pencil make sure it has a good straight line and draws dark enough for you. Again make sure it's comfortable. There's no point in spending a dolls worth of money on a pencil you're never going to use when a cheap disposable one does the exact same thing.

2. A pencil sharpener
this is non negotiable too, it makes it so much easier, if you have pencil crayons for designing it's worth paying the extra for the specialist one simply because it's a joy to work with (I have a faber castel one) and means you don't have to get up to sharpen the pencil but any sharpener will do

3. A good eraser
Again this is worth it's weight in gold. Now if you go into the art store you'll see a vast array of erasers each for something else, personally i use a WHSmith Tablet eraser, it costs about a dollar for a tablet the size of my hand and is just soft enough to not tear the page and hard enough to lift the pencil. This is personal preference. However you want one that lifts and not just smears the pencil or stains the page. You don't need an ink eraser which just scuffs the surface of the paper anyway.

4. Paper
i use graph paper but it's personal preference, it lets me see the straight lines but there is nothing wrong with using printer paper. it's easier to scan in a4 but again personal preference.

5. Scrap paper
I keep everything, it's wonderful to test patterns, which you'll make and you can scribble on it to your heart's content. I don't recommend using newspaper for this simply because it marks the fabric

6. A set square
This is an invaluable piece of kit. It's for drawing right angles and straight lines (I know I use a ruler for that too) but for the perfect right angle you need a set square. Now these can be expensive on their own but a school geometry set will work wonders and you get a few of them, with a pencil, a compass (you'll probably never use) a sharpener a short ruler and protractor all in a case. It's one of those things you'll never use until you have one and then wonder how you lived without it. It's also great for measuring around corners. Carpenters and tailors use t-squares which is a much larger version but there's no reason for one.

7. A good clear 30cm ruler
A ruler is for measuring and not for drawing straight lines allegedly, but this is something you will use for everything, it's a quick and easy substitute for a tape measure and is also good for beating against your cheek in thought. I use a foldable WHSmith one. It's just long enough for decent measuring without being in the way.

8. A french curve
A french curve is for drawing curves, they come in sets of two, one large one small and like the set square you'll never know how you lived without it. They are also, unlike the set square but like the ruler, ridged around the edges to draw clean ink lines

9. A light box
You will trace and trace and trace again and if you are lucky enough to have one use it, if not substitute this for a roll of scotch tape and i'll explain how to make one on the cheap.
take your two pieces of paper, design under the blank piece as per usual and scotch tape them together so they don't move. now taking the scotch tape go to a window which has light behind it (daylight is fine) and tape the paper to the window. Trace.

10. A folder
you will collect patterns, they will migrate to you like a flock of geese which is cute but you'll end up knee deep in paper and it gets all tangled. So a binder. i use Sanrio a4 lever arch but I'm not going to tell you what to get. What I've found useful is to keep each patter separate in a plastic comic wallet - this means i can flip through the designs if i wanted to check something or reuse something from one of my own patterns

11. A black felt tip marker - fine
This is for outlining your patterns to make them easier to trace and scan in. I have found through past experience a fineliner is too thin and some markers are too large, i use a berol fine which is available individually and is really nice to work with. A ball point pen unfortunately will not work as they blot.

when outlining with a ruler or french curve check the ruler and see how the edge is tapered make sure the edge is on the top so the ruler is upside down, the top should be totally flat - this stops the ink bleeding when you pull away the ruler.

12. A scanner
I use a flatbed but use what you've got, it makes all the difference believe me.

13. A good art program
This is personal preference, every one of you will have one program that they swear by, even if it's paint. I use neopaint which is shareware as this is easy to use and has the option of reducing the pattern to 2bit turning it to black and white quickly and easily.

Optional - but really really useful
14. A drawing tablet
this makes all the difference when tidying patterns or tracing designs. There is nothing wrong with using a mouse (I used one for years) but it's one of those things that just makes it much much easier.

15. A designated drawing surface
There is nothing wrong with working on your lap (looks around nervously because she does) but if you have somewhere where you can work, even if it's only the dining room table take it. If you do acquire a large sheet of thick cardboard. This will give you a nice soft surface to work on, making it much nicer to draw on (also to doodle on) it makes it less likely you'll lose the items in the mess beside you.

16. and last but not least
somewhere to keep the little bits together. This can be a wallet, a pencil case, i use the tin from a gift bottle of vodka.
it's handy and means i know where I've left things. You will find it becomes a bit of a haven for things as they appear

Next comes the fun part picking your pattern
for lots of reasons i decided to make a Hina Ichigo cosplay for my Yo-sd Noah,
It's a simple layered pattern for a child and he's the "youngest" looking doll i have unless you count my orient doll so - Ed.

so having decided to make a Hina Ichigo pattern I went scrabbling around for pictures of the girl in question to check out her outfit, having watched the anime i took notes of the episodes where she is in her underwear so that could be sketched too
the vast majority of this pattern will be made with white lawn but failing that white poly cotton is always good. It's a simple all in one bloomers and vest set, a smocked white dress with ruffle and a pink coat with detailing

draw everything, at this stage it really doesn't matter about body shape etc or whether your drawing looks like her or a potato in a dress, you're working out where the details go - so make sure to draw front and back and then because this is your working sketch make notes around it, whether it's ribbon at back - small gather
or all that ruffling is going to be a pain.

my sketches look like this

from this i work out line drawings- without embellishment so i can see how the item goes together, this takes a lot of practice but once you get the swing of it will save you hours of faulty pattern testing. Again I make notes on everything

this is her underwear

the a-line dress and coat

on to part 2

cadacusfall @ 2008-07-19T00:40:00

2008-07-18T23:42:28Z

photos

feedback thread

2008-07-01T23:47:47Z

I opened a thread for feedback on DOA
http://www.denofangels.com/forums/showthread.php?t=226265

this information will be on the info page as well.

3 New patterns available, Puki, MSD

2008-06-19T23:12:11Z

Puki sized Kimono, will fit any 12cm doll but NOT Bobobie
modelled on Orientdoll So
$2.50

MSD sized Gypsie outfit with shoes and headscarf

modelled on AOD Rao
$10

MSD sized highland boy outfit with bagpipes, hat, shoes, stocking, and sporran

modelled on DZ Megi
$10

Commission thread now open

2008-06-13T16:34:56Z

We are now offering commissions for any sized doll from Puki to SD13

Both of us have been sewing all our lives and for dolls for years. We are open to suggestion on what it is you'd like

Pricing includes labor and materials and is worked out in advance but not paid until the item is ready for postage.
There are no paypal charges.

We can do tailoring, gowns, and matching accessories. We also offer Cosplay, including kimono and hakama.

Our stock in trade is patterns, and pattern proofs are often available, but we do not offer a clothing shop per se, all items are one of a kind and either made to order as commission or as a pattern proof.

We have a range of dolls including puki sized, yo-sd (both boy and girl) MSD both boy and girl, SD13 girl, with SD10 boy on order.

1. Marie Antoinette Robe a'la francaise MSD for angelikfiona
2. Rococco boy's outfit MSD for angelikfiona
3. open
4. open
5. open

OOAK patterns for SD13 available on ebay

2008-06-07T12:00:32Z

New Patterns available on Ebay

GL - http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=320260510973&ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT&ih=011

Basque - http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=320260514497&ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT&ih=011

Wedding gown - http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=320260517769&ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT&ih=011